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How to fit Plantation Shutters | 247 Guides
Fitting your new Shutter blinds can be a doddle proving the best guide. We've created a step-by-step guide below. Feel free to watch the video, or simply press the download button to grab a copy and print!
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Screwdriver
Drill
Measuring Tape
Pencil
The corret screws and wall plugs
This could be plaster, wood or even steel depending on the surface you'll be fitting your blind to.
We recommend looking online to ensure you get the best fittings for your blind.
Recommended extras: Spirit level, decorators caulk and packing material such as cardboard or wedges.
Shutter Panels in rectangular boxes*
Frames in a separate, longer box*
Screws
Hinges
Hinge Packers
Hinges Pins
Plastic Hoffman Keys
Small Drill Cover Caps
*Where possible to avoid transit damage, we try to streamline packaging, this could mean, where the shutter is small enough, for example a 1-panel size, that you only receive the one box. Open it up and layout your pieces, and if you're worried you've not received the full kit; give us a call on 01484 443790.
THE INSTALLATION OF THIS PRODUCT SHOULD BE CONDUCTED BY SOMEONE COMPETENT IN DIY.
STEP 1 - ASSEMBLING THE FRAME
Carefully open the packaging and lay out the contents on the floor.
Please note that drill holes are not always predrilled into the frames, this is to allow you to fit the blinds as you require.
After laying out your frame, panes and pieces, position these up to ensure everything slots into the right place.
Slide your frame pieces together. The end of the frames are mitred (cut at an angle to pair with another piece), designed to connect to the adjoining piece.
Check the back of your frame, a bowtie-shaped hole forms in each corner.
You should use the plastic Hoffman key and tap this into the holes to connect the frames.
Do not use another frame piece to tap this in, something like a rubber mallet is more suitable.
For Tier On Tier Only
We ask that you provide us with the divide height of your Tier-on-Tier shutter, as this determines where your shutter panels split into two tiers.
For shutters under 1500mm in width, the door panels have small stoppers on the top and bottom, ensuring a snug fit.
For shutters over 1500mm in width, a supportive horizontal T-Bar is supplied. This is approximately 50mm as standard and comes as one piece, as we do not offer this as a configurable option.
NOTE: For Bromley Snow & True White, shutters come with a T-Bar by default, regardless of width. Insert the T-Bar into the frame using the pre-drilled holes. Once assembled, lift the frame into position.
This is where a spirit level becomes useful, use packing as you go along as required.
STEP 2 - FITTING THE FRAME
Once assembled, using the Hoffman key, lift your shutter frame into place. Using the pre-drilled holes, mark the screw holes against the wall by screwing the screws partially through.
You may want someone to hold the frame to keep it stable while you do this.
This will mark the wall where you need to drill. Take the frame off the window and, using the new holes as a guide, drill the holes and insert your wall plugs.
Lift your frame back into place and screw your frame. We recommend only screwing part way, to hold your frame in place while allowing for any adjustments to the position.
NOTE: Brackets are pre-fitted onto the frame for you. If you require, you can lightly unscrew these and slide the brackets up or down to adjust. Do not use all the screws or drill the frame in fully at this point.
Ensure that your panels are the right way up, either by checking the tilt rod can slot into the mouse hole at the top of the slats at the front, or by ensuring that the slats close upwards.
If instead you've chosen the hidden rod option, there will always be a rebate in the top rail to accommodate the closed slat.
Lift your 1st panel into the frame, then secure by sliding the hinge pin in each hinge. Repeat on the other panels.
Once done, close the panels and lightly shift the frame left to right until all the panels line up together at the top. Use a spirit level to check.
Now remove each of the hinge pins and carefully take the panels down. Release the top screws which have been holding the frame in place and carefully take the frame down.
Now begin to drill each of the marked screw holes. Place your wall plugs in, then slot the frame back into the window. If required, pack the shutter back in place in the same position as before. The drill holes should now all align.
Drill the frame securely into the wall and replace the panels as before, securing with the hinge pins. Should you need to, use the hinge packers supplied to make fine adjustments to the space between the closed panels.
You can also adjust the panel's position vertically. Now fully secure your hinges by tightening the screws and putting the final middle locking hinge screwing.
For a clean finish, place caps into the drilled holes onto the frame.
Using your decorators caulk, seal any gaps around the frame. You may also want to caulk the inside of the back of the frame. Afterwards, use a wet wipe to finish.
To close the vanes, push the tilt rod upwards. Then, apply light pressure, run your hand upwards from the bottom to fully close them.
When closing the panels, support the weight of the leading door, lift up slightly and place back into the frame.
You may find over time that your slats lose some tension. Not to worry, this can be adjusted by using the slat tension screws, which are located on the inside edge of the panels.
A quarter turn of the screw is enough to tighten the mechanism.
WARNING
Whilst Plantation Shutters are child safe by design, as with all window dressings they still pose a risk if used unsafely or installed in an unsafe location.
To ensure your shutter is a safe as possible, please ensure all beds, cots, or furniture that can be climbed is moved away from the window.
While the shutters do pose minimal risk with regards to choking or strangulation, The panels can still be pulled off the hinges and case a risk of crushing or injury.
